For the past few years I’ve been reading promising articles about Italy’s Puglia region, which is located on the southeast coastline in the heel of the boot. Puglia is an under the radar destination that is blessed with miles of golden beaches, a breathtaking number of whitewashed hilltop villages and acre upon acre of huge olive groves. It’s also touted as being the “New Tuscany” by many travel writers, which meant that it was definitely a place I had to check out. So in search of great food, fine wine and a little sunshine, we decided to drive to Puglia from Umbria on a whim. Since we wanted to go to Croatia after Italy, we were excited to find out that we could take an overnight ferry from Bari (Puglia’s capital) to Dubrovnik after our visit.

 

After a long drive from Umbria, we arrived in the town of Ostuni late at night and in desperate need of a comfortable bed. We were welcomed at the lovely, modern La Sommita and, after a restful night’s sleep, awoke in the morning to a stunningly beautiful town. Ostuni is an ancient hilltop town filled with whitewashed houses, staircases, small roads, alleys, and arches. It is commonly referred to as Citta Bianca, or The White City.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

While La Sommita is a plush, chic, modern and comfortable hotel, you could also opt for an authentic Puglian experience at one of the many “masserie” just outside of town. Masserie are fortified large estate-farms that offer luxury accommodations, local cuisine, cooking classes and plenty of relaxation. Among these is the famous Masseria San Domenico, a masseria once held by the Knights of Malta!

 

On our first day exploring outside of Ostuni, we discovered that quite a few areas of Puglia are a little rough around the edges. Most of what is seen from the highway is industrial, commercial and fairly unattractive. However, don’t let that deter you from visiting. When you delve deeper you’ll find that the towns of Puglia are extremely charming, rich with history, and overflowing with some of the tastiest food Italy has to offer. It might surprise you to learn that, although a historically poor region, Puglia produces much of Europe’s pasta, presses most of Italy’s olive oil, catches the bulk of the country’s fish, and is the sixth biggest wine-making region in the world–one of the most popular local wines is Rosso Primitivo del Salento.

 

 

 

 

We also had a chance to visit Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to some 100 curious structures called trulli that date back to the Middle Ages. Trulli are whitewashed, rounded houses with cone-shaped, grey stone roofs that are built without mortar. During the Middle Ages, the king was known to charge exorbitant taxes for building on his land. The theory is that this style of building was a way Italians kept from paying taxes – something they’re still famous for! Without mortar, they weren’t considered permanent structures and, therefore, not eligible to be taxed.

 

 

 

 

 

We enjoyed our time in Puglia immensely. I wouldn’t necessarily agree with those travel writers that Puglia is the “New Tuscany” simply because it’s truly a place unto itself. Not only does Puglia hold its own against Tuscany’s food and wine, but it also reveals itself as a truly beautiful region filled with idyllic scenery, stunning architecture, azure-blue waters and welcoming people – all for considerably less than you would pay in the more touristy areas of Italy. If you visit Puglia, you’ll find that it is definitely a diamond in the rough and a place well worth exploring.

 

Yes, it’s true that I’ve fallen a bit behind on my travel blog. I think Italy is to blame…..all the wonderful food, intoxicating wine, infinite museums, palaces, piazzas and medieval hilltop towns are a bit distracting. And if given the choice between spending my days exploring Italy or sitting in dark, overpriced internet cafes, I think I know which option I’d choose every time.

So Jason and I recently said arrivederci to Italy after 3 glorious weeks. We traveled between Florence, the Tuscan countryside, Umbria and Puglia. The weather for much of the time we were there wasn’t what you would call ideal for sightseeing (it rained quite a bit and was more chilly than we anticipated), but we decided that it was out of our control and to just make the absolute best of it. Florence, or Firenze as it’s called in Italy, is a stunningly beautiful city and is also the cradle of the Italian Renaissance. Because of this surge in artistic, literary and scientific activity, the city is overflowing with evidence of masterpieces from the Renaissance Age. Boticelli, Michelangelo, DaVinci, Raphael, Brunelleschi, Machiavelli, Donatello, Dante…….I could go on and on. Between the mindboggling number of museums, churches, palaces, piazzas and various other tourist attractions, there is enough to see and do in Florence that would keep even the most avid traveler busy.

We rented a great little apartment in an area called the Oltrarno, which literally means the other side of the Arno – the main river that runs through Florence. The Oltrarno is a cool, eclectic, bohemian area full of students, young Florentines and artisans. An area I highly recommend for a visit to Florence because you’re walking distance from the historic center, but also away from the blaring noise of mopeds and crowds of tourists. The Oltrarno is also a fantastic area for good food. There are an endless number of quality trattorias, osterias, ristorantes and wine bars on each and every block. 

Jason and I had the opportunity to visit a former co-worker of mine from Standard Pacific and his wife - Keith and Tania. They moved from Southern California to Italy about 3 years ago and recently purchased a beautiful home at the base of the hill that leads to the medieval town of Cortona (the town made famous in Under the Tuscan Sun). Keith and Tania were amazing hosts and tour guides!

When we arrived in Cortona, we decided that we hadn’t consumed any pasta, steak, pizza, prosciutto, salami or wine in at least 2 hours……so Keith and Tania took us to a fantastic trattoria where we feasted like kings (more like pigs) for a little over 3 hours. We started with a house red wine, an antipasti platter and two amazingly tasty pastas. Our main course was Bistecca alla Fiorentina, a delicious and rather large cut of beef from the locally farmed Chianina cow. It’s sold by the kilo on menus in Italy so we naturally ordered 2 kilos total……roughly 4.5 pounds…..I should probably mention that there were seven of us eating!

During lunch Jason and I mentioned that we’d been dying to go to a restaurant in Panzano, a small town in the Chianti region, which is run by Dario Cecchini, a.k.a. the world’s most famous butcher. They too had heard of this Dante-quoting butcher and Solociccia, his recently opened restaurant. So it was settled…….Jason and I would stay another night and we’d drive the 1 ½ the next day for lunch.

Over the course of yet another 3 hour lunch, we were treated to red wine and seven (yes, seven) meat courses – he is a butcher after all. Lunch was followed by olive oil cake and a selection of 3 different grappas. All in all, the lunch was absolutely delicious and quite the ordeal. I’m not even exaggerating when I say that I didn’t eat again for almost 2 days! By the way, best of luck to anyone who wants to order a big green salad anywhere in Italy…..they’re as elusive as a leprechaun’s pot of gold at the end of the rainbow

A few days later we picked up a rental car in Florence and headed to Umbria, the lesser traveled wine country just south of Tuscany and just as spectacular. We stayed at Locanda Rosati, a small inn just outside of the beautiful hilltop town of Orvieto. Jean Pierro (anyone see the resemblance to Norm McDonald?), the owner of the inn, was by far one of the most gracious and accommodating hotel owners we’ve ever met. We had a family-style dinner each night in the downstairs dining room – Jean Pierro was there each evening socializing, telling stories, and offering sightseeing advice to his guests. Each meal was also followed by his homemade limoncello…..yumm!!!

During our 3 days in Umbria, we explored the picturesque hilltop town of Orvieto and its many Etruscan caves, lovely Civita with only 16 residents, and Pitigliano (the town of Tuffo). The day we visited Pitigliano was the feast of their patron Saint, San Rocco……so the village was very lively and busy in preparing for the evening’s festivities. Just outside of Pitigliano, we hiked into the Etruscan pathways of Via Cava di San Giuseppe. These are ancient pathways carved out of the rock by the Etruscans thousands of years ago. They are carved deep into the rock, so it is almost like being in a cave, but they are open at the top.

All in all, Florence, Tuscany and Umbria were absolutely spectacular. The food, wine, culture, history and sheer beauty make them areas well worth exploring. And, while we enjoyed our time in Florence, I think we were surprised to find that we much more enjoyed the slower-paced life in the coutryside. We’re looking forward to coming back again soon (I hope!) to rent a house for a few weeks in Umbria. There are just so many towns with beautiful cobblestone streets and alleyways to get lost in and discover.

Please keep an eye out for our next posting on Puglia. Until then, click here to view a few photos from our time in Italy. Ciao!

 

Last week Jason and I spent a few days in Salzburg, Austria before catching a train from Munich to Florence. Salzburg is a city of absolute sheer beauty that seems to have been taken straight from a fairy tale. The city is dotted with cathedrals and palaces in a stunning Austrian baroque style, and topped off by an enormous fortress on a hill called Hohensalzburg. It is also the birthplace of Mozart, which makes it a haven for classical music, opera and theater fans. 

We spent our first day strolling through the streets of Old Town and walking up the steep stairs to Hohensalzburg Fortress. That night we attended a recital by world-renowned female pianist from Budapest. She performed works by Mozart, Chopin and Schubert. The setting in a baroque palace was absolutely striking and somewhat surreal.

Because of the rain the next day, we spent most of our time at the Museum of Modern Art, which is perched on a hilltop with spectacular views of the city. What an amazing museum! The highlights were definitely the exhibits by Hiroshi Sugimoto. That guy is on a whole other level than the average human being! The thought process that goes into his work is absolutely startling.

We then made our way into the Old Town to visit Mozart’s birthplace and family home. The home has been turned into a museum and is truly fascinating to walk through. We learned that Mozart wrote his first opera at the age of 8, and by the age of 11 he wrote two more! Now I don’t want to make too many comparisons between myself and Mozart, but by that age I had successfully written a book report on Superfudge and gotten a B-. 

Later at our hotel we met Jossi, a businessman from Tel Aviv. We got to talking and after awhile he invited us to join him and his wife at a “unique” performance given by theater students at a local playhouse. Were we in for a treat……or so we thought. When we arrived at the theater that evening, we realized that the performance was a kind of final exam for the students and that we were the only people in the audience who weren’t family members or close friends. What unfolded before us was a singing recital of almost 30 American, German and French songs set to follow some sort of “Robert Johnson’s Devil at the Crossroads” theme – quite puzzling and very, very long. Let me just say that John Mayer, Tom Waits, U2 and Sting songs just aren’t quite the same when sung by amateur actors in an Austrian-German accent. Sting’s Moon Over Bourbon Street was especially interesting! All in all, still a very fun and unique evening. Definitely something we would have never experienced in Laguna Beach.

We really wish we had planned more than a few days in Salzburg, as there was much we didn’t have time to see. We’d love to go back again and spend at least a week….possibly in the summer when the Salzburg Festival takes place. Anyone who has the opportunity to visit Salzburg will certainly find it a stunningly beautiful and welcoming city.

We’re currently in Florence and, as soon as I can find time between wine, food, churches and museums, I’ll be sure to write another post and download some photos soon.

Ciao for now!

 

Jason and I recently spent 4 nights in beautiful Ischgl, Austria! We went to ski and experience the grandeur of the Tyrolian Alps, but we’re unfortunately greeted by less than ideal skiing conditions. So, what to do? We stayed at the Hotel Salnerhof, which touts itself as a “wellness” spa hotel. Our breakfasts and supposedly healthly 7-course dinners we’re included in our stay, as well as access to their below ground sauna and steam rooms. I’m sure many of you know that Europeans have a very open-minded attitude toward nudity. As Americans, we were of course a little out of our element as we entered the nude grotto of sauna and steam rooms that first day. Nude men, women and children were everywhere and Jason quickly noticed that my comfort level was dwindling. I knew there would be naked people here and there, but come on……this was a bit much for me. His advice? Just look everyone in the eye……don’t let your eyes wander.

Before I ran out – never to return – Jason and I were lucky enough to find a safehaven in an empty steam room and ducked in as quickly as we could. In the steam room we discussed how childish we felt that we were this uncomfortable with the idea of being nude. Here were people that seemed extremely comfortable in their bare skin…..they were actually quite enjoying themselves. We agreed to forego our conservative, American views about nudity and join the “When in Rome” school of thought.

I have to admit, it was pretty bizarre to see the same dressed people at dinner that we previously saw naked in the sauna or steam room. I don’t know how to explain it, but after a few days it just seemed normal. ”Oh, there’s Olga and Jan from Brussels……and, is that Hans in the plaid shirt over there?”

And the benefits of steam and sauna? Absolutely fabulous. It’s great for your skin, circulation and overall well-being. While we aren’t quite yet a modern-day Adam and Eve, I think Jason and I have definitely become fans.

We made our way toward Ischgl, Austria on Sunday and along the way stopped to ascend Zugspitze, the highest peak in Germany at 10,000 feet. In order to reach the peak, we took the Zugspitzbahn for a mere 63 euros for the both of us, which is roughly about $100. Well worth it though!! We were lucky to have such beautiful weather at the top because the views in all directions were absolutely stunning and jaw-dropping. From one side of the peak you’re able to see Bavaria, and from the other you can see Tirol in Austria. Oh, and we saw quite possibly the world’s most dangerous set of stairs.

Jason and I are now in Ischgl and will post an update in the next day or two before making our way toward Salzburg. Our current plan is to then head south to Italy toward warmer climates……you can take the girl out of California………

 

The geisterbahn is typically a haunted roller coaster ride at Oktoberfest (it literally means ghost train), but last night we rode a geisterbahn of a completely different sort. It all began over a few drinks at a local bar…..fast forward 7 hours later to me falling down a flight of stairs in an abandoned hemp rope factory. But let me back up a bit…….

We arrived in Fussen late yesterday afternoon via the Autobahn – Jason is proud to say that he got our rental car up to 190kph!! Once we arrived, we got settled in our hotel room and went out for an evening stroll. After seeing a warm and inviting Italian trattoria, we decided to step in for a dinner that didn’t involve sausage, potato dumplings and sauerkraut. As soon as we walked in, however, we were slapped across the face with a wall of cigarette smoke. We immediately made the decision to forego dinner at this particular establishment and have just a drink instead. Tony, our bartender, informed us that Thursday is “smoking night” and, because smoking is strictly forbidden indoors anywhere in Bavaria, we were asked to sign a log stating that we understood the health implications.

This is when we met Ali, an extremely interesting man who has lived in Fussen all his life. After a few beers we came to learn that Ali makes didgeridoos for a living; however, he refuses to sell them over the internet and has actually never even been to Australia! We left to have a quick bite and returned to meet up with Ali for a few after-dinner drinks. His wife, Daniella, had joined him by then and told us that she and her friend had a bet on whether Jason and I were Australian or British. When we told her that we were American, she gasped in disbelief  and said, “I didn’t think you were Americans because you’re not fat and don’t have cameras around your neck!” This we both had to laugh at…..

As the night and beers progressed, Ali and Daniella invited us to come and hang out with a few other locals at a “very special place.” When I asked Ali exactly what he meant by that, he couldn’t think of the English translation for what he wanted to say. He turned to Tony, the extremely colorful and excitable bartender, and spouted something in German with quite the devilish smirk on his face. Tony merely replied, “Ahhhhh, the Geisterbahn…..you know, the haunted rollercoaster!” Not having any idea whatsoever what he was talking about, we were intrigued (if not a little frightened) and cautiously accepted the invitation.

We left the bar and proceeded to the curiously aforementioned Geisterbahn. As we stumbled through the cobblestone streets of Fussen, Ali gave us a little more background. He and Daniella were taking us to an abandoned textile factory by the river. He and other local artists use the space to create art. Ali has a studio there to make his didgeridoos, and others have their own space to create music, sculptures, paintings, what have you. There are even a few artists who live in the factory. And let me be very clear, this building hasn’t been renovated and turned into posh artist’s lofts….this is a very rough and otherwise seemingly abandoned factory.

Jason and I spent the next few hours drinking beers and listening to a guy named James belt out Doors tunes for our listening pleasure. We were given a tour of the factory and were told many stories about its history and the art that now occupies its space. At about 3am, we said our auf wiedersehens and headed back toward our hotel. As we walked down the stairs, I decided to take this picture of Jason and promptly fell flat on my back on very unforgiving steel stairs. Ouch. And I still have the bruises to prove it. Many of you know what a supreme klutz I can be, so I’m sure this is quite amusing for you…..you know who you are……

The next day, as we were sitting in the town centre enjoying some sun and cappuccinos, we ran into Wolfgang and James, twin brothers that we had met at the factory the night before. Jason and I were soon headed on a walk to Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein Castles, so Wolfgang and James offered to come with us to show us the way. Since it’s about a 6km walk and we weren’t sure of the exact route, we gladly accepted! They took us on a beautiful walk around Schwansee (Swan Lake) and up toward the castles. Both Wolfgang and James are true history buffs and gave us a wonderful private tour of the area. We had such an amazing day and are so thankful to Wolfgang and James for spending the time to share with us all that they love about their hometown.

   

 Friends and family, fellow travel junkies and gourmands……Welcome to our travel blog!

Jason and I just arrived in Fussen, a town in Southern Bavaria, after spending 4 days in lovely Munich. It’s hard to believe we’re finally on this much anticipated trip, but I think it’s beginning to set in.

Munich, or Munchen as it’s called here, is an absolutely stunning city – very clean, friendly, charming, vibrant and abounding with history. It would definitely be a very easy place to call home. Every type of meal we’ve had so far – whether German, Italian, Indian, or Japanese - has been unbelievably delicious. And, of course, it has been our duty (and pleasure) to sample all the many beers that Bavaria has to offer. We just learned that 1/6th of the world’s breweries are actually located in Bavaria!

Surprisingly enough, everyone in Munich is extremely fit and healthy. I guess Jason and I half expected to see large German folk dressed in lederhosen drinking beer and stuffing their faces with schnitzel. We couldn’t have been more wrong – people are outdoors at every given opportunity and seem to walk everywhere…..quite a concept!

So that leads us to Fussen……we got behind the wheel and made our way south this afternoon. We plan to spend the next few days visiting the castles and medieval villages in the area before heading to Ischgl, Austria for a week of skiing. I think we’re looking forward to the drive as much as we are to skiing – the Bavarian Alps and Tyrols should be stunning! We’ll be sure to update the blog and post more pictures in the next few days…..oh, and more on Fussen later…..what a great little town!

Please click on the “View All Images” button below to see photos we’ve taken over the past fews day in Munich.

Take care and auf wiedersehen!